A Love Letter to Charleston
Charleston is not in Europe. But if you wander in the right places, you’ll get the feeling that it could be.
The sun is beginning to peek over the horizon as I peddle my bicycle down Huger Street. It is my favorite time of day here; the sky is a mix of pink, orange and blue. It’s calm and quiet, the city still asleep save for the Ethos gym goers heading in for their workout as I ride by. I’m making my way to Hampton Park, the first destination on my go to bike route.
I turn right off of Huger onto Ashley Ave, pulling into the park and checking for other riders and runners as I swerve into the bike lane. The outside loop around Hampton Park is one of my favorite streets to ride, it’s oak trees looming large over the road, encapsulating it in a tunnel of leaves and Spanish moss. The flowers bloom year round at the park, furthering the beauty as you make your way around. I typically circle the park a few times before exiting on Elmwood and making my way along the Citadel campus.
I’ll turn right onto Fishburne Street and pass by the RiverDogs baseball stadium, where some days you can hear the crowd roar as a pitch comes in or the team practices out on the field. Brittlebank Park zooms by as I weave along the wide sidewalk. If I’m feeling ambitious and don’t have a time to be back by, I’ll make my way over the Ashley River Memorial Bridge, hoping not to get caught by the drawbridge letting boats through. There is a great trail to the waterfront at the end of the West Ashley Bikeway with a dock that begs you to sit and stay a while.
If I don’t have time for the extra jaunt over the bridge, I continue across Spring Street towards The Battery. The sidewalk is narrow here, but when you make it under the James Island Connector the view of the boats in the harbor and the pluff mud at low tide comes into view, and it is worth the extra balance and skill necessary to weave along the guardrails.
The sidewalk widens again as you pass the Charleston City Marina and palm trees line the road. As you round the corner onto Broad Street, the more historic side of the city comes into view. To the right, the grand homes that line the battery. To the left, Colonial Lake. Depending on the day (and the morning traffic on Broad), I’ll cut across the street for a lap or two along Colonial Lake, taking in its lush greenery. No matter the day, I always end up back on Tradd Street as I make my way to the path along the waterfront. More palm trees, massive historic homes and dolphins appear along the way. I’m a bit of a dare devil here, riding with no hands on the handlebars and weaving my bike back and forth along the street. When the construction prevented you from riding all the way to The Battery, I’d detour left onto South Battery Street and gush over the updated homes with their lush landscaping. Living along this street seems like a dream.
Once you reach The Battery, you typically start to see more people making their way into the day. A popular destination for tourists and locals alike, being along the water is something you can’t miss here. I pass the cannons and make my way towards Rainbow Row. It doesn’t matter how many times I’ve rode or walked past, I always stop for a picture of these colorful homes. With their window boxes full of flowers, brightly painted facades, and moss covered cobblestone driveways, this part of town will make you feel like you’ve stepped into the streets of Europe. Maybe that is why I always stop, it draws me in just like it’s European counterpart.
At this point in my morning, I am ready for coffee and breakfast. I hang left onto Broad and right onto State Street, the various church steeples coming into view as I turn sharply towards my stop; Harken Cafe. Charming and quaint, the cafe beckons you in with its welcoming tiled floor and case full of treats. My go to order is the espresso tonic and biscuit with butter and jam, ideally enjoyed on the outdoor patio or tossed in my bike basket and taken to go and enjoyed near the Pineapple Fountain at Waterfront Park. The best time to visit here is early morning, before the crowds descend. It is also a great place to catch the sunrise. There are many of those places here.
Breakfast and coffee enjoyed, I make my way past the city market, vendors busy setting up their stalls. I pass the port of Charleston, the International African American Museum and the South Carolina Aquarium before jumping onto East Bay Street for the final stretch of my ride. If it were later in the day, I’d make my final stop at Island Cabana Bar for a bucket of cold beverages and a snack while enjoying the view of the Cooper River Bridge. Some days I get adventurous and ride my bike over that bridge, too.
There’s more to love about Charleston than just my favorite bicycle route.
There’s the beach and the ocean just 15 minutes away from my apartment.
Local coffee shops; Babas, Sightsee, The Harbinger, Island Provisions, all just a short walk away.
The pedestrian lane along the Cooper River bridge.
Hidden alleys and side streets oozing in charm.
Marion Square Farmer’s Market on Saturday mornings.
Shopping along King Street on Second Sundays.
Herd Happy Hour on their back patio. Herd Happy Hour extending into Herd late night around the fire pit.
The greenery! Palm trees, tropical leaves, Spanish moss, flowers that are always in bloom.
The sunrises and sunsets, these are not to be missed.
The people and connections. My dinner club girls. The sense of community when you walk into the gym at Ethos.
There’s not much I dislike about Charleston. I’ve lived here for the past year and a half and lived here from 2014-2016 as well. No matter where I travel, near or far, I’ll always consider Charleston as one of the places I’ll call home.
